AM-6154_AM-6155_New_life_-_W1AN_2014.pdf

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1、New Life for the AM6154 and AM6155 John, W1AN 29 July, 2014 There are numerous sources for conversion information and modifications that have been shared over the years for the FAA AM6154 and AM6155 amplifiers which many of us are still using. Someday I may go the route of solid state but I still en

2、joy working on the familiar older equipment with which I grew up. I will share more recent work and perhaps a few of you will give those amps another few years on the air. One problem that often rears its ugly head is the HV RF breakdown of the plate line capacitor insulator. This is made of mica or

3、 Dupont Kapton. Successful repair methods have been shared by K4HV, WA5VJB, K0TLM, W3RJW and others, and implemented by many, mostly for the 432MHz conversions. In my case, I had two failures on 144MHz and the modification I made is similar to the K4HV method that re-locates the HV feedpoint and cho

4、ke. My mod locates the feedthru cap and choke to the side of the tube housing. To start you will need to remove the tube and the screws that hold the tube plate to the plate line. There is the metal bracket to which the end of the Red HV lead is soldered after passing through the inside of the cavit

5、y plate line. The plate cap, Kapton or mica insulator is sandwiched between. Once the screws are out you need to pull it away from the cavity while unsoldering at the center pin. It should only require minor tension while applying heat. Next unsolder the end of the Red HV lead at the HV connector th

6、at mates with main chassis. This is at the rear end of the assembly. Do not remove the shrink tubing or wire at the feedthru end. Now you will need to remove the feedthru cap. I found that you can use a sharp edged small flat screwdriver tapped tangentially against a hex side of the feedthru to loos

7、en it enough so that you can easily unscrew it. Do it counter clockwise! Take your time! Once out, very carefully remove the shrink tube and red lead on the threaded end only. The next few photos show pretty much all you need to know. Be careful locating the drill for the new feedthru location. Leav

8、e clearance so that the mounting nut will lay flat inside. A nut and lockwasher from a 3/8” potentiometer shaft fits the feedthru. Reconnect the red lead and add the choke. I used about 25T of #26 on 0.25” teflon rod. You could probably wind this on a 1W high ohm carbon resistor. Close is good. Less

9、 turns would be needed for 220MHz and 432MHz. I measured the original Kapton insulator to be 0.0025” thick or 2.5 mils. I replaced it with 3.0 mil piece which I obtained directly from Dupont. I did not trust alternate sources. If asked, I have some pieces available for an SASE. After the repair and

10、a tune up, I found that my power out increased by about 40W. On 144MHz I easily get 350W out with 6W input on CW, but I dont like to push it. I believe the original HV straight wire “choke” was robbing some of the efficiency by shunting some of the RF to ground. I havent test 220MHz or 432MHz yet. I

11、f you have broken plate line and rod insulating supports you can make a fix from glass epoxy PCB material that has the copper removed. If you do it like the photo you need not fully disassemble the cavity from the tube housing. The tube socket and mounting appear to be adequate. Time will tell. If y

12、ou want to have the option of using either the original Amperex DX-393 and Eimac 8930 or the Russian 4CX400A, I recommend using the VE2ZAZ bias supply design. I show my version of the circuit board with a way to select the tube bias option. I havent found any solid state regulators that have a wider

13、 voltage range so I think we are stuck with the LM337T. Maximum voltage across it is 40V. I use DIP switches to select the bias range. You could use a pair of 2 pin headers and one push on jumper to achieve the same thing. A DPDT PCB mounted switch would be ideal. Below Ive included below some schem

14、atics I edited with changes I have done. By no means is this write up intended to be a complete guide to converting an AM6155/AM6155. There is much more on the web that includes the RF sections, relay keying, and other approaches to accomplish the same. Most of the credit is due the many others over the years that have shared their work. 73, John, W1AN